Sound and Fury in Fabric
Bacall, Hendrix, Streisand, Cher, the Supremes, Aretha Franklin, all names to conjure with: all bodies that have been draped and displayed with a Stephen Burrows design. Stephen started young, making dresses for a friend’s dolls, and then when he grew up and went to school for fashion, he knew he wanted to break the rules. His trademarks are light, fluid fabrics, visible seams, and contrasting thread to make the seams stand out even more.
One of the very first African American designers to hit the world stage, Stephen won awards year after year in the 1970’s. He showed his collection at Versailles, and his shop in New York City was an instant sensation in the opening year of the decade. Influenced by his love of music and dance, Stephen’s dresses are so light and fluid you could actually step onto stage and perform comfortably in them… and many performers of the 1970’s did just that.
Stephen’s designs epitomize the disco era. His signature lettuce hems and flowing chiffons went against the trend of heavy fabrics much lined and blocked to create a trim, sexy silhouette for the wearer. The messy, disheveled look and Burrow’s party hard lifestyle with the likes of Warhol led to comments that his clothes looked like they were made to party all night in and then leave on the floor. His use of bold, saturated colour made his dresses appeal to the young women who were coming of age in the heyday of disco dancing and free love. Meant to cling to every curve, and definitely meant not to wear anything under, Stephen’s designs were hotly sexy.
His success led to his winning three of New York fashion’s top award, the Coty. He opened his shop, “Stephen Burrow’s World” to critical acclaim, and until the end of the decade was recognized as one of the top five American designers. During the 80’s he dropped out of sight, and it wasn’t until 30 years after his heyday that he reappeared in the fashion world, taking up his success almost where he left off, even the current First Lady having appeared in a Burrows.
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